Last week I was once
again lucky enough to spend some time in the field with renowned
hydrogeomorphologist, Professor Stephen Tooth of Aberystwyth
University. Among other things (he is a very very busy man), he is
currently working with Dr Kathleen Alexander and her Alexander
Research Group on a study of the extremely complex and relatively
under-examined Chobe-Zambezi River System in North-Eastern Botswana,
the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi Strip) of Namibia, and
South-Western Zambia.
The Alexander
Research Group are attempting to gain a better understanding of the
manner in which this system functions, including its annual flood
cycles, sedimentology, vegetation patterns, ecosystem services and
the dynamics (including agriculture and other human and non-human
inputs) which affect the quality of the water circulating within it,
and therefore, by extension, affect the health of the human and
wildlife populations which depend upon it. This dryland wetland
system is not only poorly understood, it is also incredibly unique
and equally important from the perspective of conservation and biodiversity – some
of the richest and most diverse ecosystems on earth depend upon it.
Professor Tooth is
bringing his expertise as a hydrogeomorphologist to bear on these
issues by helping to understand – perhaps counterintuitively –
the manner in which this system changes and has changed over time. To
him a landscape like the area around the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers is
not only a picture of the present, but is positively riddled with
clues to its past. To be out in the field with him is a bit like
entering a time-machine of sorts, as he combs through it all exposing
little bits of evidence here and there which together paint a picture
of a system continuously changing, water-courses altering, sediments
being deposited and washed away, lakes forming and disappearing
thousands of years later. There is nothing static about this view,
nothing permanent, and it is absolutely fascinating in its
extraordinary scope and complexity.
Last week I went out
with him to look for two things in particular. The first of these was
the bank of a now extinct lake, which lay along the present-day
course of the Chobe River some 40,000 years ago. We were looking for
a certain kind of rocky outcrop along the riverbank, itself composed
of the sediment of from this ancient body of water. The rock is
called calcrete, and it can be found along a stretch of the Chobe
River on the Botswana side, close to a rest-point in the Chobe
National Park called Serondela (which also has an interesting history
– it was the hub of the old Chobe timber industry). This rock is
not only interesting for the fact that it is composed of the sediment
from this ancient lake; it also actually contains the shells of two
snail species which lived in it.
I went looking for
40 000 year-old snail shells with Professor Tooth, in other words;
and after combing hundreds of meters of calcrete banks around
Serondela, we finally came across a spot containing the fabled shells
– or at least, a single shell to begin with. Once we'd found this
first shell, we began to find others, more and more of them until we
realized we were standing on a real trove of them. We even found one
or two specimens that had broken free of there calcrete casings and
were able to hold them, beautifully intact, in our hands. What's
more, the area around these shells was littered all about with
ancient stone tools, cutting blades of quartz and other colourful
stones with clear indications of knapping. We'd found the Southern
Bank of the ancient lake, and traces of ancient human habitation to
boot!
The following day we
went out again, this time on the Chobe River itself. This time we
were looking for something a little more recent in geological terms,
but something no less fascinating. We were looking for a
hydrogeological feature known as a Scroll Bar – a sedimentary
deposit which accumulates as a river gradually alters its course,
wearing away the bank on the outer edge of a curve, and depositing
sediment on the inner edge. This process is quite well known – it
is the same process which can cause the formation of ox-bow lakes,
and is the greatest driver behind the subtle but continuous changes
in the way rivers undulate.
We had our eye on a
certain section of the river already; the real challenge lay in
working out how to go about sampling the scroll bars Professor Tooth
had identified using satellite imagery (for reasons I'll describe
below). We had to contend with several challenges, the first being
the manner in which we might access these sites, and the second being
the abundant large animals like elephant, hippo, and buffalo, which
frequent the area and might make any attempt to sample the formations
an exceedingly dangerous undertaking.
Scroll Bars are the curving lines visible along this stretch of river bank, stacked from oldest on the right to youngest on the left. |
The reason we had to
work out a sampling strategy is that, while these hydrogeological
features are relatively easy to identify once you know what you're
looking for [see embedded map, depicting the area we examined], they
tell a far more interesting and complex story if you're able to date
them. It is one thing to be able to tell that a river has altered its
course in such and such a way; it is quite another to be able to draw
an accurate time-scale of these events, to be able to say that the
river looked like this five thousand years ago, and this is how it's
changed since and when. We could then tell how fast this process is
happening, for example, or, by correlating this data with other data
sets, we might be able to discern other factors at play. We might,
for example, begin to look at the manner in which floods of varying
intensities either favour or inhibit the formation of these
interesting features of the hydrogeological landscape.
So we had to figure
out a way of getting to them in the first place, and then of
surviving while we did so in the second. We found them easily enough
– they are, as I say, quite easy to spot when you know what to look
for – and, surrounded on all sides by the spoor and droppings of
quite big and quite dangerous animals, actually clambered atop
several of them. Menaced by crocodiles and taunted by troops of
baboons, careful all the while of potential lurking hippo and
buffalo, we surveyed the area. We found several places we might later
use to gain access to the layered Scroll Bars, and we made a detailed
assessment of the outer bank too, which might, in much the same way,
allow us to determine the age of the flood plain through which the
river meanders and which it slowly but surely eats away.
All told these
excursions were a great success. Professor Tooth managed to find and
survey the two hydrogeological features he was most interested in,
and I had the excellent fortune to accompany him while he did it. All
of this helps the Alexander Research Group to develop a more nuanced
understanding of the processes and dynamics at play in the
Chobe-Zambezi River System too, and will allow us in the near future
to begin collecting the samples we'll need to begin the process of
dating the changes in the Chobe River's course and assessing the ages
of the surrounding floodplains.
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